First published in http://www.lifeloversmag.com.
Edinburgh is one of those cities that has successfully seduced the world. In 2025 alone, an intimate group of 8.4 million people made their way to the city. Among them, we can find increasing ranks of women with a weak spot for literature, history and Gothic architecture –not to mention the sight of bearded ginger men.
Edinburgh’s pubs aren’t just places for a pint; they’re chapters in the city’s ongoing story.
According to Edinburgh News, the medieval city has been named in the top 10 of the world’s most overcrowded tourist cities, when comparing the number of visitors to the 490,000 people who live there.
This rise in numbers also forces us to get more creative to avoid the crowds. So what could we do when we visit the Scottish capital for the third or fourth time? Well, yes, the castle is great, but we’ve by now admired it from every corner there is. Hiking trails? Checked as well. Local gastronomy and hidden spots? Getting warmer.
So, determined to confirm a new itinerary for when we get the pleasure of coming back to this historic city, I went on a mission to discover the best literary pub trail. A pub crawl that took me into charming little corners, full of memories and inspiration. Each pub, a picturesque fragment of a city that once inspired the likes of Arthur Conan Doyle, Walter Scott, Charles Dickens, and yes, J.K. Rowling.
Edinburgh’s pubs aren’t just places for a pint; they’re chapters in the city’s ongoing story. From Rebus’s haunt in the New Town to the poetic ghosts of Burns in the Grassmarket, here’s your route through literary history, pub by pub. Starting in Queen Street Gardens, just above George Street.
The total walking time comes in at roughly two hours. And that’s without factoring in the very important business of lingering over a pint. That said, personally, I’d suggest setting off late in the morning. To be civilised enough to enjoy the walk at your own pace, and perfectly timed to justify a leisurely lunch or dinner.
You’ll find each pub has its own character, and all have been standing for at least a century. The route is arranged by walking distance rather than preference, so no favourites here. But, if you’re determined to crown a winner, you’ll simply have to do the hard work yourself.
Last but not least, yes, you can hit them all in one day. But unless you’re on a mission like The World’s End, I’d recommend alternating half pints in some pubs, as well as giving their food menu a try. Without further ado, here are nine stops on our Edinburgh Literary Pub Crawl, well worth your time if you love the city, literature, and a great challenge.
1. The Guildford Arms
Address: 1 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA
Literary connection: A classic Victorian pub dating from the late 19th century, evoking the era when Edinburgh was a centre of publishing and intellectual debate. While not tied to a single author, it reflects the kind of grand public house frequented by writers, journalists, and thinkers of the time.
2. Cafe Royal
Address: 19 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA
Literary connection: With its ornate interiors and Victorian elegance, Cafe Royal mirrors the social spaces described by writers such as Charles Dickens in his travel writings. It captures the atmosphere of literary Edinburgh during the height of the city’s cultural influence.
3. The Oxford Bar
Address: 8 Young Street, Edinburgh EH2 4JB
Literary connection: Closely associated with Ian Rankin’s Inspector Rebus novels. Rankin himself is a regular, and the pub appears repeatedly as a place of reflection and conversation for his fictional detective.
4. Milne’s Bar
Address: 35 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 2PJ
Literary connection: Often referred to as the “poet’s pub,” Milne’s has long been linked to writers of the Scottish Renaissance, including Hugh MacDiarmid, and later generations of poets and journalists working in the city.
5. Bennets Bar
Address: 8 Leven Street, Edinburgh EH3 9LG
Literary connection: A beautifully preserved Victorian pub whose snug rooms and intimate layout recall the storytelling culture of the late 19th century. Popular with theatre-goers and creatives, it reflects Edinburgh’s long tradition of conversation-driven literary life.
6. The White Hart Inn
Address: 32 to 34 Grassmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2JU
Literary connection: Traditionally associated with Robert Burns, who is said to have written “Ae Fond Kiss” here. William Wordsworth is also believed to have visited. One of the strongest direct links between a pub and Scotland’s literary canon.
7. Sandy Bell’s
Address: 25 Forrest Road, Edinburgh EH1 2QH
Literary connection: A meeting place for poets, musicians, and storytellers, particularly during the 20th-century folk revival. Its cultural importance lies in the oral tradition of poetry and song rather than formal authorship.
8. The Abbotsford Bar and Restaurant
Address: 3 to 5 Rose Street, Edinburgh EH2 2PR
Literary connection: Named after Abbotsford House, the home of Sir Walter Scott. The pub reflects Scott’s enduring influence on Edinburgh’s identity as a literary city and its pride in historical storytelling.
9. The Kenilworth
Address: 152 to 154 Rose Street, Edinburgh EH2 3JD
Literary connection: Named after Sir Walter Scott’s novel Kenilworth. A subtle but direct nod to Scott’s role in shaping historical fiction and romantic views of Scotland.
Here’s my very own Google Map to guide you through Edinburgh’s literary pubs.
Little Chilean 